Protecting New Pinball Machines — Stern, Jersey Jack, Chicago Gaming

If you've recently bought a new pinball machine — or you're planning to — you might wonder whether playfield protection makes sense. After all, modern playfields have factory clearcoat. Aren't they protected already?

Partially. Modern clearcoat is far more durable than what was used decades ago. But "more durable than the 1980s" doesn't mean "wear-proof." Here's how to think about protecting a new machine.

Modern pinball playfields are typically made from a wood substrate (usually a plywood or laminated wood material) covered with screen-printed or digital-printed artwork, then sealed under multiple layers of automotive-style clearcoat. The clearcoat layer is much thicker than the simple finishes used on vintage machines.

This construction is good. It's also not invincible.

The wood underneath compresses when struck by a steel ball — leading to dimples, regardless of how good the clearcoat is. The clearcoat can crack, chip, or develop adhesion issues, particularly around insert edges. And while the artwork is well-protected, wear can still occur in high-traffic areas over years of play.

One of the most-discussed topics around modern machines is dimpling. New owners often notice small dents appearing on their playfields within a few hundred plays and worry their machine is defective.

It isn't. Dimples are normal on every pinball machine, modern or vintage. But they're often more visible on modern machines because of two factors:

The wood used in modern playfields is generally softer than the hardwoods used decades ago. Old-growth lumber is gone; modern replacement species compress more readily under ball impact.

The viewing conditions in modern homes — clear lighting, good visibility, glossy clearcoat surfaces — make dimples easier to see than they were on lower-resolution vintage finishes.

See our detailed dimples article for the full picture. The key point for new-machine owners: protection from day one is the most effective way to minimise dimpling, by a wide margin.

Stern Pinball is the largest current manufacturer, and Stern machines have their own pattern of common issues:

Dimpling has been a recurring topic, particularly on certain production runs.

Insert wear around clear inserts has been observed on some games.

Specific high-impact areas (cannon-fire mechanisms, drop targets with hard launches) can show wear faster than less aggressive games.

Pro, Premium, and Limited Edition models share the same basic playfield construction, so protection considerations are similar across the range.

For Stern machines, fitting a protector before first play is widely recommended by experienced owners.

Jersey Jack machines are generally well-built with quality playfields. They're not immune to the universal dimpling issue, but specific problems have been less commonly reported than on some Stern runs.

JJP machines often have particularly intricate artwork that's worth preserving, and their resale values tend to hold up well — making protection a sensible investment.

Chicago Gaming Company produces reproductions of classic Williams titles (Medieval Madness, Attack from Mars, Monster Bash, and others). These use newly-manufactured playfields that combine modern construction with classic artwork.

The playfields are generally good, but reports of insert issues and clearcoat concerns on some production runs make protection particularly valuable on these machines — both for preserving the new playfield and for protecting your significant investment.

Smaller manufacturers and boutique pinball makers (Spooky Pinball, American Pinball, Pinball Brothers, and others) produce machines with varying construction standards. The same principles apply: factory clearcoat helps, but is not wear-proof. Protection extends the life of the playfield regardless of who made it.

The optimal time to fit a protector is before the very first game. Here's why:

The playfield is in absolute perfect condition. No dimples, no scratches, no ball trails. Everything you're protecting is already there in pristine form.

Fitting a protector at this stage "freezes" the condition. After hundreds or thousands of plays, lifting the protector reveals essentially the same playfield you started with.

Waiting even a hundred plays allows initial wear and dimpling to occur — wear that the protector then preserves in place, but never reverses.

For a new-in-box machine, the day-one approach is by far the most effective protection strategy.

Some new-machine owners hesitate because installation requires partial disassembly, and tearing apart a brand-new pin feels wrong. Two points on this:

The disassembly required for protector installation is essentially the same work you'd do for routine maintenance over the machine's life. It's not exotic or risky.

Doing it before play begins is actually easier than doing it later, because there's no accumulated grime, no degraded rubbers, no sticky residue from years of use.

Most owners who fit protectors on new machines report the installation went smoothly and that the work was worth it for the peace of mind.

New pinball machines are not cheap. Premium and Limited Edition models cost as much as a decent used car. From a pure financial standpoint, a custom protector represents a small percentage of the machine's value.

The protection it provides typically translates into:

Higher resale value when you eventually sell. Machines in well-preserved condition consistently fetch more than worn examples.

Lower restoration costs over the machine's life. A playfield that never develops significant wear never needs expensive restoration.

More enjoyment of the machine in the meantime — there's a real psychological benefit to playing without worrying about every dimple.

This perspective deserves a fair hearing. Some collectors prefer to play their machines without protectors, accepting wear as part of pinball's character. Arguments for this approach include:

"Pinball is meant to be played" — wear is honest evidence of use and enjoyment.

The slight gameplay difference of a protector isn't worth it for purists.

Future restoration is always possible if the playfield becomes problematic.

These are legitimate views. The counter-arguments — that restoration is expensive and irreversibility limits options, that the gameplay difference is minor and adjustable, that protection costs nothing in the long run — are also legitimate.

Reasonable collectors land on both sides of this. The reversibility of protectors means you can try one and remove it if you don't like it, which removes most of the risk from making the decision.

For a new pinball machine you intend to keep, play regularly, and potentially sell later: fit a protector before first play. The investment is small relative to the machine's value, the protection benefit is substantial, and the decision is reversible if you change your mind.

For a new machine you might own briefly and resell: it's still worth considering, because well-preserved machines hold value better. But the urgency is lower.

For a new machine you absolutely want to play in its raw factory state: don't fit one. The machine will wear over time, and that's a legitimate choice. You can always change your mind later — but you can't unfit a protector you wish you hadn't bought.

Modern playfields are better than vintage ones, but not invincible. For new machines, especially valuable ones, day-one protection is the most effective way to preserve the playfield in its factory-new condition for the long term.

For more on the wider picture, see our complete protection guide, our dimples article, and our guide to how protectors affect gameplay.